I have seen frost (like last winter) go down and heave the whole wall. (Call your local bldg inspector if in doubt - they will indeed help homeowners as they want to see it done correctly the 1st time).Ģ) Dig down for the egress 'pit' or 'Window well', dig it at least 18' lower than the amount of block to take out and at least 6' wider the than the widest point of the egress walls (usually timber or metal).ģ) At 12' below the finished sill, what is the distance to the floor? It needs to be at least 32' for frost protection. Use oil on the wood form so the concrete releases from the wood (do this before you screw it in).Īlso consider this: Will you be adding insulation to the inside of the block wall to finish off the room? You need to determine this for sill extensions, etc so the window itself is properly seated for in and out for a nice fisnished look.ġ) Varify that the window meets egress code and the other egress dimensions too as mentioned above. And the next day you can add the treated frame. Use high early conc mix 5,000 psi (at Menards) for the sill, it sets up quicker. Often I have it level for 4' at the window and then add the pitch where it is past the wood sill. Have the sill slope at least 1' to the outside. Use 2.25' Tapcons to secure a 5' long 2 x 8 or sim to the wall on each side. If say you will have 3 or 5' of concrete to fill in below the treated wood for the window, do that 1st before installing the treated wood. You can use a sheet of plywood/chip board to temp block the area over night. (Menards has both) Sweep and vacume before you remove the poly. You can use a 4.5' grinder (light and easy to handle) and add a 4.5' x 1/8' Diamond blade to it.

Often a halogen light is helpful to see the cut marks on the wall. Buy a new filter for your shop vac, as you'll need it with the fine dust. Use a tight fitting rubber type mask and safety glasses. Also on a windy day - make sure the new window opening is on the downward side of the wind. Turn off the furnace fan, Put in a fan on the opposite side to blow in air and one by the new window exhaling to create air pressure so the dust goes outside. And the floor except where you will enter. Tape the poly to the ceilinf all the way around. (seal it so dust does not get into the other rooms or air ducts). And there is also a distance from the window to the face of the exterior egress wall (lots of time a wood timber wall or metal wall). So before you go cutting/demolitioning, make sure that it ALSO meets that egress code too. Just saw it from each side with a smaller saw being you have a block wall.Īlso, egress applies from the height from the finish window sill to the floor. But unlike Rob, if you have never handled a big (16'+) saw verticlally-I do not recomend it for amatuers. As Rob said, take the block down to the next row of block. If you have 8' of head room in the basement, often people will install the top of the window the same height as the doors so the moulding matches up. The treated opening should be at least 1/2' (1' is better yet) wider so you can shim the sides for plumb and same for hieght for level.

Or do I have to make the window opening 3' wider and deeper to allow for a wood casing? Yes. Is it 'ok' to install the window on concrete No, Tr wood must contact the concrete block or concrete per code. Being I have no idea of what your building knowledge is, I will cover this like you are beginner to be on the safe side in guiding you.

Menards cinder blocks